the Pilbara and beyond............

So what will top the adrenalin rush of the whale shark extragavanza?? Craig’s plans for a fishing charter may now be on hold after 6 hours spent over the side of the boat providing the burley for all fish in range! Actually that reminds me of the whale sharks.  Waiting for the boat on our last swim to swing around and pick us up, staring down into the inky blue depths and the water alive with krill/plankton and tiny organisms just floating en masse waiting for the nearest passing shark to open its mouth and swallow them. Truly fascinating if somewhat freaky at the same time.

Anyway….. from Coral Bay it was a long day driving highway number one to Dampier. Buying the kids a can of soft drink for a treat at a roadhouse near lunchtime made me laugh with disbelief as I paid $25.00 for 5 cans of softdrink! I still can’t believe that I actually parted with my money and laughed as I did so!! A quick whip into Coles (only 600km away) and I could have bought 2 cartons for less!

As we drove towards the Pilbara the highway and landscape became alive with mining and exploration vehicles, fly in/fly out donga camps and huge earth works everywhere. The further into the Pilbara you go, the more beautiful the scenery and the more potential ravaging by mining conglomerates you see. I wonder if all this short term financial gain for WA will turn to regret when its all gone? And the natural earth is no longer there either? National Parks cut in two in order to mine in the middle of them. The rewards not shared equitably…….mmm…. might stop now.

So Dampier, red dog country. The Burrup Penninsula, breath taking scenery not so slowly being consumed by industry…on shore gas plants on fire 24/7, looking like mini cities; railway lines that are 24/7 and a non stop port. But despite all the organised chaos of industry there was something really appealing about Dampier that couldn’t be said for its close neighbour Karratha. We stayed in the cheapest caravan park this trip at $28.00 and probably they would be hard put to make you pay more as the iron ore train worked all night unloading just behind the park! We were recommended dinner out just up the road so gave it a go. It turned out to be a fly in/fly (FIFO) out mess hall for the workers that was set price, all you can eat. Lochie’s eyes lit up in wonder at the food and he made a really good go of his $12.50! For Craig and I it really bought home the strange lifestyle of FIFO, the loneliness and detachment from the community, not something that I would volunteer for. But it’s a job and obviously pays extremely well listening to what people had to say.

After the necessary photos with red dog in the morning we headed further into the Burrup peninsula to find some aboriginal rock engravings. Walking down a narrow creek bed between hills that were piles of red boulders that looked like God had just dumped them there was great fun spotting an engraved kangaroo or a turtle or mythical man. That’s when we weren’t looking at our feet trying to find treasure of the aboriginal kind, a flint, a spear head or anything!

Karratha wasn’t noteworthy for anything, even the op shops were shut so a great disappointment and just for stocking up on food. We camped at Point Sampson that night, after Craig walked out of the first caravan park who wanted to charge him $70 for a 1950’s piece of concrete in the middle of nowhere! We headed into Cosssack early the next morning. Cossack is a ghost town that is perched above the water and is famous for being Australia’s first pearling town. Now empty, we spent a fascinating few hours searching up and down the dunes, finding cameleer waterholes with date palms growing beside them and looking for treasure.

After filling up at Roebourne we pointed our nose at the nearest dirt road and headed into the Hammersley Range for a few days exploring in Karijini National Park. Getting off the highway was great! We took the non mine permit road to Millstream Chichester national park and drove through huge cattle properties with towering mesas and blood red mountain ranges running through them. Joining the mine road after python pool was a red dust experience as mine vehicles scurried around us in both directions and 3 to 4 doggie road trains were on the road too. Getting back off the mine road and going the long way round to Karijini might of taken longer but the road was less eaten up and made for easier driving! Seeing this country is amazing and just so stunningly beautiful. We are so lucky to have this right up the end of our backyard!

Karijini itself is gorgeous and wild. We woke every morning to the sound of dingos howling, we were camped in amongst the spinifex, and the stars were beautiful. Spotting the satellites reminded us all that we live in the 21^st century! Walking down into the gorges and swimming in the ice cold water made up for the hike back up at the end! I nearly walked on a goanna while I was lecturing the kids about watching out for snakes, then on our last walk we had to quietly walk around a dozy tiger snake in order to get out of the gorge! For all those who know of my horrifying snake phobia, I was very calm and didn’t even break into a sweat! The trailer looks very broken in and completely coated in red dust, so are we. The red dirt sticks and we all look like we’ve had fake tan go horribly wrong we’re so glowingly red!

Mothers Day we went out for tea at the Eco retreat, a short walk down the road. The kids made me some beautiful cards that I’d like to frame. Amazing what they do when they put their minds to it. No phones meant we weren’t able to ring Mum or Maureen but our thoughts were with them. So Karijini, so far to go but so spectacular!

Driving out of Karijini  and onto a bitumen road briefly was nice. Then we decided to go the back way and go via a goat track to Marble Bar! Adventurous we were feeling but going to Marble Bar twice in one lifetime may be one time too many! The hottest town in Australia has the loveliest water/swimming hole with a huge bar of jasper (not marble pioneers) running through it. There were a couple of aboriginal people fishing and I could of camped there if it was allowed. But the pull of Broome was calling so onto Marble Bar and northwards. Taking another alternate route through the dirt we went past a few aboriginal communities then did our first river crossing. Getting out to check the depth of the water I got fronted by the most enormous Brahmin bull. It was a quick run back to the car while he turned and casually walked the other way! My wildlife experiences are growing daily, probably lucky I didn’t get swallowed by a whale shark!

We camped that night at the beginning of 80 mile beach. The name says it all. The huge shells we collected and the drive up the beach were a highlight. We had so many shells we had to park up and cull and make some decisions about what to bring home! Close to the coast as the highway runs, the scenery is pretty boring and you don’t get to see the huge mountain ranges just inland. Finally at the end of a long day we made it to Broome…….here to stay, maybe for a week to recharge and get ready for the next adventure. We pulled in looking like filthy hobos, covered in dirt and dust with stiff hair and smelly feet. The only people who will talk to us are the aboriginal ladies on the beach, the travelling trailer and its crew not quite up to scratch for the rest of the caravan park! A shower, a shower so we can rejoin society (do we have to?)!